Tulum in Wethersfield

This new modern cantina evokes a coastal beach vacation, with high ceilings, a breezy open dining room, live greenery, and vibrant fare inspired by the fresh produce at Mexican markets.

“It’s Tulum in Wethersfield,” said general manager Phill Alves of No Mames by the DORO Restaurant Group, which opened April 30.

The 120-seat restaurant and bar also happens to be in a Silas Deane Highway strip mall between a Marshall’s and a pet supply store, which Alves said lends to its appeal as an escape from everyday hustle and bustle.

No Mames (a slang term that loosely translates to “no way”) is the latest outpost for DORO, which owns and operates eateries like Àvert Brasserie, Treva, and Zohara in West Hartford; Artisanal Burger Company in Manchester, Casadoro in Newington, and DORO Marketplace bakerycafes in West Hartford, Wethersfield, and Windsor Locks.

With French, Italian and Mediterranean concepts in the repertoire, DORO partners Dorjan Puka and Scott Miller looked next to elevated Mexican cuisine – with the help and expertise of chef Ryan Van Grouw.

Van Grouw was living in Brooklyn and working in Manhattan restaurants when he and his wife had their first child. They decided to move closer to her western Massachusetts home, looking for more space to raise their family, and he joined Àvert Brasserie as executive chef in 2022. But he hadn’t forgotten his five years working in Tulum, he says, cooking over open fires and learning from not just Mexico natives, but people from all around the world.

“(I immersed) myself into the culture, and just amongst people who lived there from all walks of life,” he said. “It was really gathering those experiences, taking a little bit from a guy who lived in Copenhagen, this person who worked at an awesome restaurant in Los Angeles.”

Puka and Miller were interested in opening a Mexican concept, and they began doing their research, leaning on Van Grouw’s expertise and traveling to New York, Miami and Mexico City to dine at similar restaurants. Back home, they crafted a menu of Mexican street foods, including tacos on house made tortillas, shareable starters like queso fundido, elote and tostaditas; and various ceviches and aguachiles featuring fresh fish and seafood.

The all-day menu also features three different types of guacamole: a conventional offering with lime and cilantro, another with lump crab and sweet corn, and an early fan favorite, the piña asada with grilled pineapple and pickled onions, which is served in a hollowed-out half pineapple with a chili salt rim. “We’re going through a lot of pineapple,” Alves said.

The most popular tacos have been the chicken tinga and carne asada varieties, Van Grouw and Alves said, along with the al pastor, featuring marinated pork and pineapple cooked on a rotating trompo. Guests can see the vertical rotisserie from its central spot in the restaurant’s open kitchen, and Alves said the tables closest to the action have become very popular.

To their surprise, Van Grouw and Alves said they’ve seen more customers trying tacos with lengua (beef tongue) and nopales, or cactus pads. Similarly, guests have enjoyed a huitlacoche tlayuda on the appetizer menu, which features the earthy corn fungus that is often called “Mexican truffle.” While some diners are familiar with these specialties, others are discovering them for the first time. “To an extent, I’d say the guests have been very generous with their trust in us,” Alves said. “It happens every night. When you tell a guest it’s beef tongue, they’ll say, ‘Great, I’ll take that.’ I’m very thankful that they’re like, ‘Oh, you guys know what you’re doing, I’m sure this will be great.’”

“Platos fuertes,” or main courses, include carne asada, pollo asada in an al pastor marinade and red snapper in a mole verde, which Van Grouw said has some Thai inspiration with its use of ginger, lemongrass and coconut milk. A vegetarian dish of chiles en nogada spotlights poblano chiles with walnuts and a plantain picadillo.

A “para la banda” section of the menu includes larger portions intended to share with a group, including crispy whole fish of the day, short rib in a guajillo glaze, and “parrillada” – a mixed-grill presentation with pollo asada, carne asada, and chorizo. Each meal comes with rice, beans, escabeche, and a taco kit, with tortillas and lettuce leaves.

DORO’s executive pastry chef James Arena is in charge of No Mames’ desserts, with confections like passion fruit flan, spiced chocolate pot de creme with horchata foam and vanilla bean churros, and “La Lima,” a lime-shaped mold of lime cheesecake mousse with mint and guava.

Raspados, or Mexican shaved ice with fruit purees, are served from a pushcart in cantaloupe, cucumber and strawberry chipotle flavors. Van Grouw got the idea from his time in Mexico, and recently fitted the cart with a bicycle bell, turning the tableside presentation into a show.

At the bar, the cocktails are naturally centered around tequila, mezcal, and rum, with tropical flavors and infusions. A Guavalajara with habanero-infused tequila also features pureed guava, Rhum Clément, lemon, and pineapple, and other drinks highlight corn-infused pisco, pureed chayote, epazote-infused gin, and horchata. Guests can also sample tequilas and mezcals through organized flight tastings, and a non-alcoholic menu offers options like fruity agua frescas. Van Grouw said the No Mames team has lofty goals for the future. At their first all-staff meeting, he said they discussed a desire to be the best restaurant in the state – not just the best Mexican restaurant, but overall.

“Obviously, it’s a high goal,” he said. “It doesn’t really get higher than that. But we’re holding ourselves to that standard and continuing that mindset…Everyone here is really working hard to create an amazing experience.”

A great vacation indeed.

• No Mames Mexican Cantina is located at 1140 Silas Deane Highway in Newington. Nomamesmexicancantina.com.