Forge City Works in Hartford Gets Back to Fine Dining, While Continuing to Support the Community

A Safe Haven in Frog Hollow
By / Photography By | January 24, 2023
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Michel Dooley working on her daily mise en place at The Kitchen Café; The Fire by Forge building, former home of Firebox Restaurant; Shrimp & Grits – pan-seared shrimp, Carolina Gold rice grits, chili garlic red eye gravy. TRAINEE PHOTOS BY WATERMARK INC. 

Frog Hollow’s very name, legend has it, comes from the hollow formed at the base of Zion Hill, where a swamp drained into a tributary and hence provided a safe haven for countless frogs at Park River. A safe haven. True or not, the 19th century lore has carried weight in a place where safe havens, out-of-the-box thinking, and community development continues to be at its core. For nearly fifteen years, Forge City Works (FCW) has served as a beacon of hope for the Hartford Community. And they are about to add yet another approach with Fire by Forge, a fine dining restaurant opening in early 2023.

The organization will not only continue but expand the extraordinary work they do (originally as Billings at Forge) by helping many in the Frog Hollow community participate in on-the-job culinary training while cultivating other work/life skills. FCW has given hundreds from the community facing barriers to work or hardships a second chance; they’ve helped turn residents into well-rounded, marketable employees, through its now legendary training program. The icing on the cake? FCW will also continue to be a culinary force with Fire by Forge—in the former space of what used to be Firebox.

“We want to be recognized as a stand-alone, excellent destination restaurant,” says Executive Director, Ben Dubow. “The mission is a bonus for the guest, and core to who we are. So, the food has to be excellent, as well as the experience, and the customer service. Fire by Forge will present Pan American Cuisine, inspired by the very residents of Frog Hollow and Hartford, with cuisine from South America, Central America, North America, and the Caribbean. We will also focus our efforts on local, sustainable food, particularly from urban farms.”

In addition to the excitement surrounding the new restaurant, all the moving parts that Forge City Works has cultivated over the years will continue to grow. The current Kitchen Cafe will become a catering commissary and training space and the front area will become classrooms/computer center and a training center. Along with the catering arm and farmers market, food operations will fall under the new Fire by Forge brand. The training program will continue and expand as well. FCW offers various levels (1-3 for example) of job development. Level One of the training program will expand from 12 to 16 weeks and Levels 2 and 3 expand learning with internship opportunities, “transitional employment,” apprenticeships, and even long-term work at the new Fire by Forge. There will even be divisions put in place for continued professional development and management training.


Clockwise from upper left: Juan Hernandez working at The Kitchen Café by Forge City Works; Cedarplank Salmon with seasonal succotash and saffron squash sauce; Mussels with fries, a classic dish featuring wild mussels from the Gulf of Maine, chorizo, and white wine; topped with “fire fries”; Two trainees at Forge City Works learning skills in the kitchen lab.

However, despite how many people going through the program, they affectionately refer to FCW as a “family,” trainees are encouraged to grow beyond the walls of FCW. “They will always be a part of the program,” Ben mentions. “It will continue to be a resource for them and will be there if they need help, and yet; it’s important they leave the nest and fly.”

Ben is proud to carry the torch, first lit by former director Cary Wheaton, who sadly passed away in May 2021. Not new to the world of third spaces, where home meets work meets community, Ben’s culinary career has also been fueled by social justice. He admits his work at Bistro on Main in Manchester was very much inspired by the model at FCW. Bistro on Main was also an organization that trained people in food service and helped them get back on their feet; so, the pivot to FCW was natural.

In the midst of growing its executive board, Ben is joined by Executive Chef Andrew Perri, who started at Firebox as a Sous Chef. By the new year, they plan to add to the board a full culinary team, including a Catering/Commissary Manager, Chef de Cuisine, and Sous Chef, all of whom will also have mentoring responsibilities to the new trainees.

“I am so excited to see that space live again,” Chef Perri Says. “It’s really special for me to have such a big part in the remaking of the restaurant. The menu is eclectic and has so many options. Vegan dishes, vegetarian, gluten free, Halal, and plenty for the meat lovers. We will truly have something for everyone. The price points range from $12 for a sandwich or $32 for a duck breast.”

The restaurant staff will be split between restaurants and will be made up of 50% trainees, and 50% of other culinary professionals, with a preference for those right in the Frog Hollow neighborhood.

“It's very exciting to be a part of the development of Forge City Works, the expansion of our training program/ workforce development, the food access programs which include our seasonal farmers market, and the plans for our neighborhood grocery store,” Andrew says. “We are also doing a lot of DEIB (Diversity, Equity, Inclusion, and Belonging) work, which is helping to develop a better culture, not only here at FCW, but hopefully something that influences the restaurant industry as a whole.”

With offering education, continued training, and progressive templates for compensation and benefits like revenue shares and employee assistance funds, Ben hopes what FCW is doing will create a model of equity that can be replicated throughout the restaurant industry. Ben adds, “We think what we’re doing makes sense in the neighborhood, for our mission, and for the city of Hartford.”

  • Fire By Forge is located at 539 Broad Street, Hartford.
  • Forge City Works is located at 27 Lawrence St., Hartford.
    www.forgecityworks.org
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