ViVA Il Caffe Italiano!
The aroma of coffee, and more specifically, fresh ground coffee beans, is up there with some of the most enticing smells around. But before getting to that point, the beans follow a meticulous path from tree to fruit, bean to roast, to grind, and brew. Learning a bit about the process and the business that gets us that fine cup we long for each morning adds an extra dimension of appreciation for local roasteries like Saccuzzo coffee in Newington.
It is easy to forget that our daily beans actually come from a hardy, rich-green plant with glossy leaves and fruit that truly resemble cherries. Grown in the bean belt which is the mostly tropical regions near the equator (give or take 10 degrees north or south) of Africa/ Arabia, Latin America, and Asia, the cherry houses two beans and is usually harvested first by hand. At the farm, the beans are dried and processed in various ways before delivery to Sacuzzo arriving in 60-70kg sacks. The Saccuzzo’s may receive as few as ten bags from specialty producers to multiple pallets from larger farms. The Saccuzzo’s try to highlight the farmer’s hand in the roasting processes which can include wet or washed, honey-ed, or natural. After roasting, the fully washed beans tend to yield a cleaner, almost flowery, light-bodied taste. With honey processing, the red skin of the cherry is removed but sticky “mucilage” around the bean remains. After drying, then roasting, the flavor tends to be right down the middle: an almost sweet, medium-body brew. With the Natural process, the whole cherry is left alone to dry, and although this process takes longer and can be more work, after roasting, the beans yield the most full-bodied, berry-like brew.
When he first came to the U.S. from Sicily in the ‘70s, espresso purist and Roastmaster Vincenzo “Enzo” Saccuzzo, was unable to find a cup he liked. He wanted to bring Italian coffee culture, with its sleek bars and impressive machinery, to the States at a time when “coffee bars'' were rarely found outside of Europe. He began roasting coffee in Connecticut in 1979 with an espresso, the Grande Italia Miscela Originale, still the company’s most popular roast today. Over time, each of his three sons, Marco, Dave, and Joe became a part of the business. Along with their uncle “Sal”, Salvatore Mazzarella, who, as a military veteran works at the factory part-time, the business has become a fully family-run operation.
As the company grew, the Saccuzzo’s continued to upgrade the roasting facility. In 1995, it took nearly six months to finish their first extensive installation upgrade, with nearly all of the machinery coming from Italy. Every few years, they must update the software, roasters, and packaging equipment. As a matter of fact, [at time of print] the Saccuzzo’s were awaiting their latest 30kg roaster to add to their already formidable line regularly used in the factory. With no official titles, each family member knows every part of the business and does what is needed to keep it humming - from handling the beans and roasting, to facilitating orders and fixing the machines, to hosting demonstrations or tastings.
“Unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, we critique every coffee we try. We are always in pursuit of perfection, which can sometimes be difficult because everyone has different tastes. Sometimes the discussions can get heated, but would you expect any less from an Italian family? –Marco Saccuzzo
(top) Vincenzo “Enzo” Saccuzzo in front of the company’s oldest vintage espresso machines; (top left) Marco scoops up a handful of ready-to-roast beans; (bottom left) Marco sharing a perfect double shot of the Grande Italia 'Miscela Espresso Originale'; (right) a roaster is a heated drum which tumbles and rotates the beans to desired temp, color, and flavor;
Coffee aficionados know the beans we long for have global ties from farms in Africa and Brazil, Vietnam and India, to name a few, and, just creating a relationship with the farmers and distributors, let alone maintaining trustworthy business partnerships is a feat in and of itself. Introduce a pandemic, and every facet of the business becomes strained.
According to a Bloomberg article in February, reporters Tatiana Freitas and Aine Quinn note the industry is reaching records as supply, weather, and the rise of food costs affect the market. “Coffee futures reached the highest in ten years in New York amid mounting concerns over tight supplies. Arabica prices have more than doubled.”
As with just about every business, Saccuzzo Coffee had to pivot during the pandemic. For one thing, they added retail sales and online sales to the wholesale business. “We basically became available to our customers whenever they needed us,” says Marco Saccuzzo. From offering curbside pick-up to updating the website, the roastery did what it needed to keep the flow of business, happy clients, and coffee brewing. Some of those happy clients at the top of the list are longtime customers like Atticus Cafe in New Haven (40 years); Modern Pastry in Hartford (40 years); and Blue Moon Cafe in Saranac Lake, New York (nearly 30 years).
In addition to selling a robust selection of drip coffee and espresso, Saccuzzo Coffee sells Torani flavoring syrups and are the exclusive importer and distributor for Torronalba Gelato Products. They offer demonstrations, tastings, and have an impressive showroom gallery of new and vintage espresso machines. Beautiful coffee plants seen through the windows of the factory entrance stand tall next to the front doors. Having them front and center, reinforces the understanding of the fruit, and serves as a reminder of the hard work it takes, from farm to roastery to a fine cup of coffee.
Paying homage to the family and its history is the package design of Saccuzzo Single Origin or Blends. You’ll see the light gray and white side panels of the packaging. Although not overt, the design resembles a street map, and when looking closely you see the names of family members, from Enzo’s and his sons, to his grandchildren, as well the name of the street he grew up on, 64 Mariano Pinnone, in Floridia, province of Syracuse, in Sicily.
This is truly a family business serving up the heart and soul of Italy.
HOW THE SACCUZZO’S DRINK COFFEE – TASTING AND ENJOYING THROUGHOUT THE DAY
MARCO: “I will usually drink a cup of drip in the morning, black. I like to rotate between the blends and single origins, usually light to medium roasts. Then when I get to work, I’ll start with a shot of espresso, black, to make sure blends are tasting properly. I’ll probably have another 2-3 shots throughout the day.”
DAVID: “I will usually do the same as Marco, but sometimes I make my wife and I a cappuccino in the morning.”
JOE: “I usually have a pour over or a cappuccino in the morning, then a few espresso throughout the day.”
ENZO: “I usually make an espresso before coming into work. Then another when I get to the factory, and usually one after lunch, always Black. And almost always it’s the Grande Italia Miscela Originale blend.”
Saccuzzo Coffee
149 Louis St, Newington
www.icaffe.com
