Authentic Peruvian Food at Coracora in West Hartford

“Ceviche is Life. Ceviche is everything. You drink the Leche de Tigre and it's like an upper, it gives you energy.” That’s one proud Peruvian American featured in season one of Padma Lakshmi’s Taste the Nation. The tiger's milk she was referring to, as many food enthusiasts know, is not actually milk but the traditional citrus-based marinade for the national dish, complete with lime and herbs which cure or “cook” the fish to tender perfection. It is just one of the many colorful signatures of Peruvian culture.

Connecticut is fortunate to have some of the most remarkable, authentic Peruvian food around at Coracora in West Hartford. Foodies have not only been flocking to this cultural landmark, but the restaurant and the sisters running it have made national headlines. At time of print, the restaurant is a James Beard finalist for Outstanding Restaurant, one of only five in the nation, and the only one on the list from Connecticut in 17 years.

Like many immigrant stories, that of Grecia and Macarena Ludena includes a great deal of hardship and sacrifice. Their parents arrived in the U.S., as many do, just wanting to flee the difficulties of their native home and start anew. They wanted to give their children the chance at a better, more secure life. With the help of an aunt who was already in the country, Hector Ludena and Luisa Jimenez were able to open Coracora in 2011. Daughters Grecia and Macarena (18 and 17 at the time), have now spent the last decade working at the family restaurant, foregoing a lot of the freedom many American teenagers have in droves. What did they get in return? A work ethic unmatched by many their age, coupled with a sense of pride for heritage and home. Now in their late twenties, when some are still deciding what professional path to take, they have a James Beard Nomination, THE most sought after culinary achievement in the country.

Clockwise from top left: Purple corn used in the Chicha Morada cocktail, at top ; Macarena at the stove; A dish of Lomo Saltado; Crimping hand-made empanadas.

The stunning entrance to Coracora

In those early days, however, they did anything and everything they could to help at the restaurant. Following in their parents’ footsteps, they’ve mastered everything from product inventory and vendor relations, to managing the front of the house and learning the ins and outs of the now highly acclaimed traditional dishes. It didn’t take long for them to settle into their natural roles. “I wanted to know everything in the kitchen,” says Chef Macarena. “My mom had a lot to show me, and it was so important that I learned everything she was willing to teach.” Macarena not only embraced the culinary repertoire of her mother but made her way to culinary school in order to refine her skills and techniques. Management and seeing the big picture have become Grecia’s forte. Now the CEO, she, and her sister, together, have struck a perfect balance.

The Ludena sisters officially took the torch and became owners of Coracora three years ago during the pandemic– quite possibly the most difficult time in modern history for businesses far and wide– to run a restaurant.

They wanted to give their parents a much needed, much-deserved respite from the daily grind. And, despite the strain every restaurant has had to endure, from staffing issues to wrinkles in supply and demand, the sisters knew they would do everything they could to keep the stovetop aflame and the food of their heritage, front and center. Flash forward to today, in the ten plus years since the restaurant first opened, the two sisters have made their parents very, very proud!

Greeted by a life-sized Llama amidst a glowing Coracora sign and colorful flowers hanging upside down from the ceiling, the pride in their Peruvian culture is abundantly clear. And, ironically enough, once guests realize that Coracora is actually an old McDonald’s restaurant, customers clearly notice echoes of the classic American institution. As a matter of fact, keeping the old drive through window from the restaurant’s previous form might have just saved them. The built-in system became instantly useful at a time when many restaurants had to create and build structures to put in place just to keep the lights on.

“It may sound cliche, but it really is made with love,” says Chef Macarena.

Grecia and Macarena Ludena pose in front of a painting of Machu Picchu in Peru.

According to the Connecticut Historical Society, the state is home to “a large and growing community of Peruvian immigrants, the state’s second largest Latino/a group after Puerto Ricans. Approximately 3,000 Peruvians live in the Greater Hartford area, with close to 30,000 throughout Southern New England.” Coracora has become a home away from home for residents who miss the food of their youth and an oasis of delicious food for those new to the cuisine.

“We serve our country’s comfort food,” says Grecia. It may not seem fancy, but it is home on a plate to so many, and despite the connection many have to comfort food being simple and easy, the cuisine is labor intensive and often intricate. Unlike the slice of Americana that is McDonald’s, the quintessential model of fast food, the dishes at Coracora take time, many steps, and incorporate layers of flavor. “It may sound cliche, but it really is made with love,” says Macarena, who says she prefers to leave the kitchen as little as possible and wants to make sure everything comes out perfectly. When customers order a bowl of soup, the Chupe Andino or Parihuela for example, the stock alone takes hours to make, often a full day. Customers enjoy the final result without realizing how much preparation goes into one bowl of soup.

In addition to being nominated for the highest culinary honor in the country, the state of Connecticut and the Government of Peru have recognized what Coracora has established in the name of culture, diversity, and community. At an assembly this spring, Hartford Mayor Shari Cantor, Governor Ned Lamont, CT Consul General Elvis Tuesta, and CT DECD Commissioner Alexandra Daum gathered together to shine a light on the family’s achievements. “We make a tremendous impact here, by bringing the best of our Peru," said Tuesta.

As anyone can see from the bold painting of Machu Picchu inside the restaurant which honors their native home, there’s a two-fold experience happening inside the walls of West Hartford’s Peruvian gem, Coracora. On the one hand, visitors stepping inside get a taste of a world they may never know, a complex region in its people, its food, and in its traditions; and on the other hand, visitors experience a palpable sense of pride for one family who calls two different places, Home.

Coracora is located at 162 Shield Street in West Hartford. 
www.coracoraeats.com 
@Coracoract