The Beamhouse in Glastonbury After Five Wonderful Years

If there's one thing that Connecticut does well, it’s work with history. Th e Beamhouse is a perfect example of how to take the beauty of one place and the history surrounding it then merge it with the technology and ingenuity of the present. What was once a well-known leather company from the 1880s now houses Th e Beamhouse, one of Glastonbury’s most popular spots for dining. It took root in the 19th century tannery building in 2018 and connected to an ever-growing residential complex.

And what a display of craftsmanship! Beams and other reclaimed wood from the building’s past abound from the very entrance with its large patchwork signage to the tables, fl oors, and ceiling. Th ere’s enough seating in the wide open dining room for 100, approximately 20 at the long concrete bar, 40 outside on the patio, and as many as you can squeeze in the cozy tap room, where every Christmas Eve they host Sharity for Charity. At the annual event passionate beer friends get together to talk, celebrate beer, and raise money for charity.

When restauranteur Jonathan Lynch (and former partner, Bill Driggs) landed there, they knew they wanted to one, utilize the strong bones and structure of the building, and two, refl ect the craftsmanship of the building’s original trade within the realm of their new vision and establishment.

(left) Owner Jonathan Lynch with Chef Jesse Powers; (top middle) A Forbidden Fruit cocktail with pear vodka, cabernet, and lemon, with a Cabernet soaked dehydrated pear on top; the popular Clarified (milk-washed) Margarita; (top right) whole branzino with caramelized fennel and salsa verde; (bottom right) smoked bluefish dip with grilled sourdough, and chives

“There are few other occupations that give you the chance to have an immediate, positive impact.” – Owner Jonathan Lynch

In a tannery, the beamhouse operation is where the production of leather unfolds. From the curing to actual tanning process, there are numerous facets and steps, and each call for thoughtful attention to detail. It’s the craft of craft, so to speak. There’s soaking and liming, deliming and bating, pickling and more, all before the leather sees its final stage. Likewise, there’s so much that happens in the kitchen, the restaurant, the bar, and the taproom, all before guests enjoy the fruits of labor by The Beamhouse team. Jonathan and his staff take every measure to maintain that same emphasis on craft and attention to detail in the food, the service, and their very large space.

“I love our big open dining room, and the entryway,” Jonathan said. “They are two elements you don’t often see in a restaurant space because of the need to maximize square footage. We were very fortunate to work with great partners before we opened, namely the late Marty Kenny, who shared a vision and made it viable to execute.

When we asked Jonathan, who has had numerous restaurants under his belt, what it is about the industry that drew him in, he mentioned it actually happened in a bar. On one of his first shifts ever–something he did at first to make a little extra money–he quickly realized, “our industry has the unique ability to significantly change someone's night, day, or week for the better.”

Well, The Beamhouse certainly has the makings to do just that. This is a place where every detail is carried out with care. Each move from the shifts on its evolving menu to the array of sought after wines and beers displayed, is thoughtful and strategic. With the esteemed Chef Jesse Powers [could his name be more well-suited?] at the helm of the kitchen, no one is leaving The Beamhouse without an education in flavor, in texture, and frankly, really good food. This is not where you stroll up just for a burger and fries. Now, of course you can, and it will be phenomenal. Jesse climbed the ranks at Millwright's and ON20, after all, so you know it will likely be the one of the best burgers and plates of fries you’ve had. But this is also the place where you can get a smoked bluefish dip with sourdough made by the incomparable Kevin Messe and his team at Small State; a pork belly with cacio e pepe polenta and an apple mostarda; a piled-high, chiffonade cabbage Caesar (a dish that actually caused a regular to jump off her stool, upon overhearing our order, to warn us that we’ll fall in love, “It’s not like any Caesar salad you’ve ever had!” she said); a full-body branzino with caramelized fennel; or a casarecce with a rabbit sugo.

A native of Manchester, Jesse has made his way around some of the most prestigious kitchens in the state and brings all that knowledge, expertise, and passion to a peak at The Beamhouse. With a particular affinity for French and Italian cuisine, Jesse remarks, paying attention to texture, in addition to flavor, can really change a dish. He and Jonathan work closely together to not only maintain a high level of quality in terms of dishes offered, the beer and wine selection, and overall service, they make sure there is a throughline and cohesion between all they are presenting and when they are presenting it.

On the day we visited, Jesse gave us in what sounded like a passionate dissertation, a particular anchovy brand from Italy he loves to use for the bar menu’s much-beloved Anchovy Toast. “They are caught and processed by a fourth generation Italian fishing family and processed hours after the catch,” he explained. “They fish for the anchovies during the May/June reproductive season using Lampare, which are special boats that illuminate the surface of the water to attract the fish, and then harvest using purse seines. The purse seines allow the fishermen to only take what they’re targeting and eliminate by-catch.” At The Beamhouse, the selections are not just about being seasonal and local. It goes a bit deeper. The menu is a parade of variety that also highlights Jesse’s culinary expertise. In 2020 while still at ON20, Jesse won Best Chef in Hartford Magazine’s Readers Poll.

Clockwise from left: Photographer Richard Ness enjoying a dry-aged burger with smashed patties, all the fixings, and the popular burger sauce; the Cabbage Caesar like no other - shredded cabbage mounded high with parmigiano reggiano and garlic breadcrumbs; a sweet-salty combo miso brownie served with vanilla bean mousse, caramel, shaved chocolate, and crispy maitake

The Beamhouse is at the heart of the Northeast and provides an incredible opportunity to serve guests the food and beverage they disserve. At the bar, you will see a mix of farmers and people from the city. Recently, there’s been an influx of residents moving back from New York and Boston, which, as Jonathan said, “is exciting since it provides a fun perspective and expectation to dining that allows us to push a little more creatively.”

Speaking of creativity, Jesse and his team in the kitchen not only shine for lunch and dinner on a regular basis with food that is obviously pleasing the community, but they have recently started a Supper Club series that allows them to stretch beyond the borders of the current menu. “Stay Tuned”, he says, is where he really gets to play on our plates.

Five years in itself deserves accolades, as the complexities of the industry often cause many to fall prey to challenge and hardship. The Beamhouse, however, is doing a lot right and has become a sought after spot for creative meals and a high-quality bar program. From service and a tremendous space to its elevated menu, it is well on its way to remaining a fixture for many more years to come. Of their positions today and the reception they’ve received, Jonathan adds, “to see a guest come through the doors with the weight of the world on their shoulders and leave with a smile…there are so few occupations out there that give you the chance to have an immediate, positive impact.” Well, The Beamhouse, based on the buzz that’s out there, and now, after our firsthand experience there, that is exactly what they’re doing. Cheers to Five Years in Glastonbury!

• The Beamhouse is located at 917 New London Turnpike in Glastonbury. www.thebeamhouseCT.com @thebeamhousect