Building and Dining from Scratch at The Charles Restaurant in Wethersfield

The building known as the E.G. Robbins House, which dates to 1790 and was a family home until the 1950s, has been a proud landmark in Wethersfield for centuries. When Bryce Hardy and his wife Kerri moved to the area after their daughter Charlotte was born seven years ago, the timing just felt right to merge their past with the present in their new community. With younger families moving in, Bryce, with a long history in the restaurant industry, believed the town could benefit from a restaurant that could also bring the old and new together.

Following a major reinvention, the couple opened The Charles restaurant in June 2020. Their goal was to honor the tradition of the building while bringing forth the tastes of modern cuisine and ambience. “Vintage Feel. Modern Taste.” This became the driving force of the venture.

Opening during the toughest time in industry history could have been a major challenge, but Bryce and team rolled with it, and in some ways benefited from not having a previous set of established protocols that would have to be radically altered or incorporated. Kerri, who designed the interior recalls, “In some ways it was helpful to open when we did. For example, it was June, so we were lucky to be able to immediately use the large lawn outside for dining.” In addition to the lawn and the main restaurant seating, there are additional rooms upstairs that pay homage to 18th and 19th century decor with sweeping wall florals, brick fireplaces, and vases with fresh flowers at every turn. Maintaining the layout of an old family home that in one iteration was in fact a restaurant/inn called Pyquag Inn, The Charles’ design and decor still feels like a place you want to hang your hat and stay awhile.

When Chef Tom Kaldy first heard Bryce’s vison of “Vintage Feel. Modern Taste,” for The Charles, he immediately thought, “That’s me!” “Since attending CIA, I’ve spent 13 years between Las Vegas and Connecticut cooking at Michelin-rated, or the equivalent, highend fine dining venues with a lot of French technique and preparations. As I progressed in my career,” Tom continues, “I wanted to implement those fine dining techniques, the discipline, and ingredient sourcing, in an atmosphere that was much more comfortable, unique, and unpretentious.”

(from left) Caprese Picolla featuring local burratina and marinated heirloom tomatoes; Chelsea prepares a Beast of Bourbon cocktail with West Prairie bourbon, Punt e Mes, orange peel, house juiced lemon, smoke; An upstairs dining room

The Charles, named after the grandfathers of both Bryce and Kerri, is just that. It is classically decorated with classic details that hearken back to luxury without feeling excessive or stuffy. There’s a balance there, and to the community’s good fortune, a balance on the menu, and on each plate. They are beautifully presented, fresh, elevated takes on the comfort food many crave like dumplings, frites, or seasonal fruits and veggies.

Using local ingredients and cooking from scratch is now how we expect things will be at a nice restaurant, but “scratch” style has become a marketing ticket as well. Chef Tom proudly admits that some that claim it may really be closer to 75% of the time. He says at The Charles, they really are upwards of 95%. “We make our own everything: sausage, vinegar, fermentations, pickled items, cured items, etc., and I think that’s what has set us apart and keeps people coming back.” That said, “Italy is much better at growing and producing San Marzano tomatoes than I am,” he laughs. One of the smash hits of the summer is the homemade whipped ricotta, house pickled grapes, and honey from Crossbow Apiaries, owned by Wethersfield resident Kevin Murrihy.

(from left) Grilled 8 oz. Filet Mignon with yukon gold potato fondant, carrot mousseline, caramelized baby vegetables, “B2” steak sauce; David Mejia, Janelle Whitehead, and Chef Tom Kaldy discuss a new dish in the kitchen. 

Having a core group that really steps up and believes in the work makes all the difference in the world. The team is still a bit shy and humbled by all the accolades The Charles has already received including Best Restaurant Newcomer and Best Ambiance/Decor in 2021 from Connecticut Restaurant Awards as well as Best Bar and Best Chef in 2022 from Best of Hartford Magazine.

Tom points to the owner Bryce and the core group of six men and women that have worked with him at other restaurants, whom he was more than happy to bring along to The Charles. “The awards are clearly flattering and humbling to receive. But even for my Best Chef award, I know that it doesn’t mean me, it means us, and I make sure our team knows that as often as possible. The way my crew has stuck things out, worked through rough times, managed to do what they do in a very small kitchen all while doing huge numbers for our size, it’s truly remarkable.”

At The Charles, serious libations are just as essential to the dining experience as the food itself, but that doesn’t mean every part of the experience has to be so serious. Bar manager Chelsea Solkowski was faced with a challenge when starting a bar program during a pandemic. She recalls thinking, “’How can we possibly create a bar following if no one’s allowed in the bar?’ My solution was to create the most hilariously ‘punny’ and memorable cocktail menu that I could.” The witticisms, along with the community’s absolute thirst for craft cocktails following the quarantine, really took off. To be sure, drinks like the Kiwi Herman, Fill in the Blank, Rice Rice Baby, Beast of Bourbon, and Ferris Muler are certainly names that are difficult to forget. “To this day, two years and ten menus later,” Chelsea notes, “I’m still making cocktails from that first list.”

The Charles is very much a fully formed, layered, rich experience; it is not just a place. From the first look, its stature and historic exterior commands attention. Bryce and Kerri have thoughtfully balanced the old with the new in a way that is inviting and creative; it is a thread that runs throughout the ambiance, the drinks, the service, and of course, the unforgettable, satisfying menu. In a very short amount of time The Charles has been able to draw an eager crowd who just keeps coming back for more.

• The Charles is located at 161 Main Street in Wethersfield – more at thecharlesct.com