Good Friends Leave Happy
Even though this is not Boston and not a pub, and certainly not a television set, co-owner Stephanie Hayes-Houlihan admits Water Street Cafe is like Cheers, the fictional meeting house from the 1980s “where everybody knows your name.” On a cold, February night, when temperatures hit single digits, the glossy mahogany bar inside Water Street Cafe filled up quickly; it indeed could pass for a lively scene out of the once popular sitcom. There are plenty of differences, however, and diners at this Stonington institution are thankful for that.
For one, the food is elevated and very much the shining star in a seaside village where serving the best that the coastal area offers is paramount. Executive Chef and co-owner Walter Houlihan is a CIA trained, California and New York seasoned chef with a passion for creating a cross section of French, Asian, and American cuisines and has his eye on every detail. Although he pulls inspiration from experience and his impressive cookbook collection–over 700 titles– he still believes in the basics of French cooking, which of course explains why some of Water Street’s signatures have been on the menu since 1994. Not quite passing, but sharing, the torch after a recent accident and surgery, Walter’s influence is still evident on every plate. Surrounded by vibrant, strong women, from his wife Stephanie and two of his three daughters, Danielle and Kelsey, and bartender Amanda Whalen, to longtime host Amanda Barnes, and newcomer Chef Morgana Vesey, Walter is in a perfect spot to ensure the place he and Stephanie have built and nurtured for nearly thirty years, will continue to be the very best it can be.
The two met while working at the Ambassador Grill inside the United Nations Plaza in 1987 and married three years later. Stephanie spent twenty years in New York in the catering and hotel industry after spending much of her youth in Europe. Walter, from Westchester, had spent time in California restaurants as well as the Grand Hyatt in New York prior to being Executive Chef at the Ambassador Grill.
Stephanie runs the front of the house, operations, and the endless list that comes from managing seventeen employees. Daughter Kelsey assists on the line with Walter who notes, “Kelsey grew up at Water Street Café, we put an apron on her at five years old.” Kelsey now has a Fine Arts degree from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and another job at the Eugene O’Neill Theater. She uses her creative background to work on plating, photography, and menus. “I have always been a creative person. Working the line in the kitchen allows me to integrate my art by expressing it through food. It is especially rewarding while working in a busy kitchen.” Kelsey chipped in during the pandemic and has been there ever since. Daughter Danielle has been WSC’s bar manager for nine years. A licensed cosmetologist who still commutes to Manhattan for the occasional client, Danielle creates the wine list and specialty cocktails. She also assists Stephanie with house operations. “WSC is an integral part of Stonington with its own history over the past 28 years,” says Danielle, “I love the sense of community where patrons have become good friends and part of our family. I like that about our cafe. It is unique.”
(top left) Danielle Corcoran, bar manager & Amanda setting up shop; (bottom right) Two specialty cocktails, The Houligan, "our namesake" and The South County Seafoam made with South County Distillery Gin:
(left) Kelsey Houlihan, making the dishes beautiful; (right) Shrimp and Streak Au Poivre with mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus.
From signature dishes and specials, including fresh fish delivered daily from the town dock to bone stock, and scratch desserts, Water Street Cafe was “farm to table” long before the phrase blew up. And with numerous talented chefs and staff to pass through their kitchen, many of whom have now made Mystic their stage, it is no wonder the WSC eclectic menu has been a key to its success.
The latest star to walk through the kitchen and shine is self-taught Morgana Vesey, a recent alum of Gordon Ramsey’s Hell’s Kitchen TV show. With an air of confidence in leading the busy kitchen, while flames spray in front of her from several pans, she appears to have been there forever. “I’ve been cooking since I was 16,” says Morgana. “After graduating from high school, I knew cooking was my passion and the direction I would take. I have learned from chefs of different nationalities that make my cuisine diverse and eclectic.” Morgana is in a good place to expand her repertoire as she works with Walter and his daughter Kelsey to balance the desire for “classics” and a yearning for something new. “Walter is the best chef I have ever worked with. He’s both old school and original. Combining old and new cuisine between Walter and myself makes us a great team. This dynamic allows me the freedom to be as creative as I want and grow as a person.”
A giant dose of warmth also emanating from Water Street is from head server, Ray Amato. With a smile bigger than he is tall, and an endless stream of charm, Ray has been serving at the restaurant for 16 years; and has known Stephanie and Walter for 25 years. “Stephanie recruited me from Cliffside Park, New Jersey, knowing I would love living here,” Ray recalls. “They are an extension of my own family.” Ray knows the menu inside and out, has a presence that is genuine and naturally warm, and he knows when to attend to or give his diners a moment.
Stephanie and Walter know how essential it is to create a sense of community inside and outside of the restaurant. From the overwhelming support WSC received after a fire in 1997 that took their second location to being the place many in town choose to celebrate or even mourn, they know that, in addition to vision, talent, and good old-fashioned hard work, they owe so much to the community. On the blustery, winter night, that we were there, the restaurant was packed, and although Stephanie and the team worked diligently to orchestrate the flow, they were also trying to gingerly take care of the group upstairs who were mourning the loss of one of Water Street’s oldest regulars. “Many of our patrons have been coming to Water Street for years and we know them as friends; we all celebrate and mourn together.”
Striking a balance, knowing your customers, serving quality food, and really taking care of everyone is a signature only a few can carry off. And after 28 successful years in business, Water Street Café has it down to a tee.
Water Street Cafe
143 Water St, Stonington
www.waterstcafe.com
A view towards the entrance with Amanda working the bar
Chef Morgana Vesey in the kitchen
TESTIMONIALS
“The Water Street Cafe has become our go to and where we always take friends visiting us. It has it all. The food is delicious, and they always have a mix of their classics and creative new dishes. My favorite is their Skillet Chicken. The staff is amazing, and the atmosphere is the best! Love this place and so grateful it’s there.” —Rebecca Higgins
“We have been eating at Water Street Cafe since the day they opened their door across the street. We love the fact that the menu always has the freshest fish and their classic dishes. Stephanie is always there to make her customers feel special and Walter`s expertise in the kitchen is top notch. To this day it is still our family's favorite restaurant.” —Mike & Lori Paolella
“We continually return to dine at the Water Street Cafe to enjoy a meal that is never boring, tastefully prepared, and presented with fresh ingredients. The staff is always welcoming and pleasant which makes our evening more memorable and enjoyable. We highly recommend dining and enjoying the food experience there!” —Sharon and Bob Dugger
