The Present Company Team in Tariffville Set Their Own Course
It’s been three years since edible CT EAST covered Present Company, and, because of the pandemic, two years since readers got to see that story. So, we felt it was time to revisit this ever-growing team and the culinary gifts they continue to bring to the state.
SEVEN YEAR ITCH? SCRATCH THAT. SEVEN YEAR BOOM!
When edible last met with Chef Jeff Lizotte of Present Company, he was eager to start planning more collaborations with other creators and organizations in the region. For one reason, doing so allows his team to step outside their walls, so to speak, and expand their perspective, and two, that experience opens the doors to culinary possibilities they may not have imagined before.
Despite the pause the pandemic forced the industry into, the team carried on and have continued to push boundaries of their unique world in the Farmington Valley. From opening up a deck and patio space–a natural extension of the bistro and counter seating inside–and a mobile kitchen, to hosting collaborative dinners and other events, the team at Present Company have redefined what they can be to their devoted regulars and the new diners discovering them every day.
Stepping outside the 19th century brick mill and onto the deck, diners feel a breeze from the nearby Farmington River while experiencing the dishes that are created inside. e new space within the space has given Present Company room for more tables and bar seating which is a real plus on busier nights. That said, the theatrics from their very tiny, very open kitchen inside the bistro area continue to be a draw for many who prefer to dine and watch from the counter or high-top tables near the action.
(left) Roasted Root Vegetable “tartare” being prepared and waiting for service; (right) Jeff with his new fire red Foodtruck
PASSING THE TORCH AND SHINING A LIGHT
While the confidence in his cuisine is strong, and the skillsets of his chefs evolve, Jeff feels good about shifting his focus to what he calls the bigger picture. That shift not only involves finding new ways to use the space, but involves shining a light on his crew, and letting them make their mark. “I love being able to offer my chefs the opportunity to put their stamp on the menu. I know how thrilling that is.”
With his prestigious culinary pedigree, including time at the Culinary Institute of America, La Tupina in Bordeaux, France, Le Bernardin in New York City, and ON20 in Hartford, Jeff knows how crucial it is to continue learning, but to also have moments to shine. “When starting out, if that’s your puree on a dish or you have the special of the night? That means so much. They get to execute in front of their peers, and, given the theatrical, open atmosphere here, they get to see the guests enjoy it.”
A real example of this pass-the-torch experience is with Chef Ethan Czarneski, Present Company’s Chef de Cuisine, who has now been with Jeff for ten years. When Jeff was still at ON20 and Ethan bussed at Restaurant Bricco, the two met while Ethan was also still in school at Central Connecticut State University. “Chef quickly noticed my interest in the kitchen and began to train me behind the line. I had zero kitchen experience and found myself failing more often than not, but it’s what drove me to learn, press on, and become better.” Ethan continued to experience several positions between Restaurant Bricco and ON20, including garde manger (pantry chef) for a little over a year until he made the move to the meat station. “I soon decided to change my focus of study at school”, he says, “from criminal justice to hospitality and tourism management. Schooling was a priority for Chef. ‘School first, cooking second’ he told me. I was super lucky to have a mentor with his values.” He says he’ll never forget getting the call from Jeff asking him to come aboard at Present Company in 2016. “I saw the open kitchen set up and the chef’s counter and fell in love.” Today, Ethan has settled a lot of his passion on perfecting pasta, something that, from presentation to each al dente bite always has a place.
From top: Pork Belly Gyoza at the table; Chef de Cuisine Ethan Czarneski; A chef finishes a pasta dish for service
FROM PANTRY TO PASTRY
“Chocolate has, and always will, reign supreme,” says Chef Sadie, a core, original member of the Present Company kitchen. She has continued to expand her expertise and says she still believes in the magic of sugar and butter. “While I had no intention of ever being the cliché ‘girl making desserts,’ I found it to be truly one of the best parts of my garde manger position,” she recalls. Now seven years after getting her start with Jeff, she says, “The freedom to express myself in the sweeter side of the menu has been exhilarating.”
ON THE GO
Present Company’s signature red color has made its way from the blazing red inside the restaurant to the blazing red food truck they purchased as a present to themselves last summer for their sixth birthday. Open most Wednesdays through Fridays, the food truck gives diners the same inventive flavors of the restaurant in a different, more casual form. The restaurant has become well-known as the place for a special occasion, a place for a little romance, or for curated, dress up experience, and as Jeff says, “That won’t change.” For many, those beautifully crafted Prix Fixe and Tasting menus are a much-desired expectation, complete with rave reviews. But he also realizes, not everyone wants a three, four, or five-course meal. Jeff knows there’s something in their cuisine for everyone. With the food truck, run by Sous Chef Andrew Lawrence, people can come visit, be a bit more relaxed, grab one or two bites, hang out or leave. It’s also another opportunity, a few nights a week, for Jeff to let his team take the reins and shine. As the “driver” of the mobile kitchen, Andrew holds the keys to the menu, as well as serves and executes. “He’s sort of a one-man show, “Jeff says.
From top: Chef de Cuisine Ethan Czarneski delivers a dish to a patron at the kitchen table; Pans ready for use; Purple Mustard Crusted Rack of Lamb being served
Newer members to the crew include Matthew Boulier from Cafe Aura, and at just 21, already proving to be an asset assisting in the kitchen. Additionally, Michael Vinclette has come aboard to be Present Company’s saute chef, a highly demanding, arduous position but one that allows Jeff and Ethan to have their eyes and ears on the service as a whole.
Above and beyond all the nooks and crannies at the Mill, Present Company continues to look for ways to collaborate and partner with the community. As a recent Chair for local organization, Healing Meals, Jeff says it is a really important effort and represents the closest thing to what being a chef is all about. The organization produces meals for families in the Farmington Valley experiencing a health crisis due to cancer or other terminal illnesses. For a period of time, the families receive fresh, home-cooked meals delivered to their houses, so they can nourish themselves during a very difficult time. “That’s who we are as chefs, right?” says Chef Jeff. “We nourish people.”
In more ways than one, Present Company is truly a gift to the region. The atmosphere is special, the experience is carefully crafted, the food is award-winning and distinct, and yet there’s always more to do and learn and create. “If you’re not changing, you're done,” says Jeff, who is filled with pride for his kitchen and crew as they evolve and shine. Importantly, he continues to be curious about how best to curate a delicious and thrilling fine dining experience for his guests.
Present Company is located at 2 Tunxis Road in Tariffville.
www.presentcompany.com
@PresentCompany
Join us for "Feast on the Farmington", a 4-course wine dinner at Present Company, July 24 from 6-9:30.
