River Tavern at 23: Rock Steady in Chester

If you didn’t know any better, you just might think you’re passing through a movie set when strolling along Chester’s Main Street. Each building stands out in color, shape, or design and represents a little of everything you’d want in a quaint town: an ice cream shop and a pizza parlor, a gallery and a boutique, a brewery, and an upscale restaurant, and…a tavern. River Tavern is not only real, but at 23 years old this year, it has become that stalwart establishment many count on for good, quality food. Chef and owner Jonathan Rapp wouldn’t have it any other way.

In addition to the emphasis on quality at the tavern, diners can’t miss–and may even come for–the art on the walls by renowned artist and longtime Chester resident, Sol LeWitt. On loan from the LeWitt foundation and Sol’s wife Carol, many art enthusiasts may feel an extra special treat while dining in view of art by whom many believe to be the founder of minimalist and conceptual modern art. And, as an extension to Le Witt’s art, Jonathan designed much of the architectural elements of the bar, walls, and service counter near the kitchen. Some of the features–the bar and counter, in particular– use mirrored plexiglass that is sanded to be luminescent. “It’s a design language we carried over from Etats Unis,” Jonathan said. With bold lines and shapes, you can’t help equating the confidence in detail with that of River Tavern’s food.

Clockwise from bottom left: Inside the kitchen looking out into the main dining room; mussels sautéed with ginger, lemongrass, garlic, scallion, cilantro and lime.; Jonathan’s nephew and RT’s Beverage Director Miller Gromley pouring a Vodka Pink cocktail; reviewing the many options

This year’s Dinner on the Farm series will host four nights, July 27-30 at Hunts Brook Farm in Quaker Hill, CT and include great wines, local beers, and homegrown music.

Jonathan has now manned a stove for 32 years, including more than a decade alongside his father Tom in once-acclaimed, now closed Etats-Unis in Manhattan. So, cooking well, and using the best ingredients is just the way it is. As he reflects on the tavern’s history, he says he and the team at River Tavern are proud that they do not try to be something they are not, which is quite likely the key to their longevity.

You won’t find the latest culinary trend on the menu, something that is taking TikTok by storm, for example, but you can expect a thoughtful dish that will be consistently delicious and made from scratch. Taking the time to make things like sauces, marinades, and roux, plus fresh bread, and desserts, all baked in house, are part of Jonathan’s and his partner Donna Colburn's, modus-operandi.

Growing up with a garden, a family who cooked at home, and one who’d make a regular trek to local farms for fresh produce or meat, are just principles Jonathan has upheld both personally and professionally.

Jonathan recalls many visits to the fish market at 3:00 a.m. during his days of cooking in Manhattan; or spending hours at the Union Square farmer’s market before filling up the bed of a truck with fresh produce. When he shifted from cooking in a big city to that of a more rural town, he wanted to maintain that tie to fresh food. He knew it would take some time to establish relationships with farmers but that is exactly what he did, and it proved to be a worthy endeavor. To Bristol for meat, to Stonington for seafood, to nearby vegetable farms; it is just part of what you do to get the best your state has to offer.

Liuzzi burrata with roasted pear, beets, figs, walnut brittle, red wine honey & fried sage

He and River Tavern have not only made a point of establishing strong ties with farmers for the restaurant, but Jonathan is one of the earliest initiators of farm series dinners in the state. The Dinners on the Farm series, launched in 2007 with Drew McLachlan of Feast Gourmet Market in Deep River and Chip Dahlke of Ashlawn Farm in Lyme, is something that still draws people near and far. Dorie Greenspan, considered by many to be our country’s goddess of baking, and a resident of Westbrook–when not in Paris–recalls a magical night in the early days of the series:

“It was an inspired evening, “she said. “I left wondering if such evenings would be possible at farmers markets around the country.” She continued, “The effort is huge and it’s not every chef who wants to cook for a crowd when he doesn’t have a clue about what will turn up in the larder, but the rewards for a community are tremendous. For me, it was extraordinary to be able to share the food of our region with the people who grow and produce it. It was another lesson in the power of food and one I wish everyone could have.”

Incredibly proud of the reverberation these dinners have had, and thankful that they continue, Jonathan was also a major player in opening Chester’s sought-after Sunday Market. Of both he said, “It is a pure, local project.” They are the type of events that open up a dialogue amongst the community about sustainability and financial support, not to mention an opportunity to say ‘Thank You” directly to the farmers.

All from left to right: Back Row (Kitchen): Cooks - Jorge Pani, Herman Fernandez, Ana Bueno, Raul Rodas; Standing: Lily Belcher (Food Runner), Brodie Swinton (Front of House Manager), Elena Peterlik (Server/Bartender), Lucco Barry (Food Runner), Emilee Surber (Busser); Seated: Miller Gormley (Beverage Director), Jonathan Rapp (Owner/Chef), Donna Colburn (Partner/ Pastry Chef)

A view of the home town exterior

In addition to the seriousness Jonathan places on the quality of the ingredients for the restaurant dishes, is the attention he and nephew, beverage director Miller Gormley, place on the wine list and curated cocktail menu. Jonathan recalls, even for his 16th birthday, his family celebrated with Dom Pérignon and a special Bordeaux. Later, when working in Manhattan, he and fellow chefs would have what he called their own “intellectual” tasting: whether it was two bottles from the same region, same year, same grape, it was important to him to really understand and learn about what he was tasting. Today, he is thankful for passionate distributors that help make the wine list at River Tavern notable and special.

On the day of our visit, and amongst the bustle of diners having lunch, a newcomer had stopped in. After his meal, he made a point to brie y talk to Jonathan and Donna who were standing near the bar. He had just been to a catered event by River Tavern the night before, but, as he strolled to the door, he turned and said, “I’m so glad a place like this exists.” It was a simple and pure moment, with no unnecessary fuss, just like River Tavern itself.

River Tavern 
23 Main Street 
Chester 
www.rivertavernrestaurant.com