New London Connecticut’s Thriving Scene is Only Getting Better, Baby!

Gone are the days when playwright Eugene O’Neill would sidle up to the bar at Dutch Tavern and tip back one-too-many after a day of writing, but old and new still live side by side in this rumbling coastal town, known as the Whaling City, given its early roots. O’Neill now lives on in theater productions across the country, and, even though the Dutch Tavern will soon pass the torch to new owners, the Tavern still stands as it has on Green Street since the 1930s. A sense of grit and grandeur co-exist in New London; however, the latter is often tucked away, something visitors have to seek out or perhaps stumble upon by accident. From the Public Library or Nathan Hale Schoolhouse to the Shaw Mansion or the spectacular interior of the Garde Arts Center, many of New London’s historic gems and their stories are less showy than those in nearby coastal towns, and yet, there’s much to capture a wanderer’s attention and imagination from dawn to dusk.

“It’s a gritty little city is what I always say,” mentioned Barbara Neff, a born and bred New Londoner. “It’s got a little edge to it.” When visiting Barbara of Neff Productions, someone who holds three or four other titles in town, she was right in the middle of juggling some of the many things she is responsible for; most immediately on our visit, she was making sure all fared well with the incoming Cape Cod travel cruise passing through Groton and New London, as she is after all, the town Dock Master.

In addition to orchestrating the logistics for boats coming in from cruise ships and private vessels to tall and military ships, she serves as the Executive Director of the Downtown Business Association. No doubt, if it is happening in New London, Barbara not only knows about it, but she’s also likely responsible for its very existence. Alongside the association and her own business Neff Productions, she manages over a dozen major events, keeping the New London social calendar very full.

There’s surely been an uptick in activity as sunshine and warmer temps mean the epicenters of NL–its waterfront and main streets– will soon burst at the seams with people and a slew of events. Barbara gave us the low-down on one of NL’s largest: Sailfest. The once three-day, now twoday experience–July 13-14, 2024–will bring nearly 300,000 visitors to NL. This year marks the 45th Sailfest and the event will be jam-packed with multi-stages for music, 200 vendors, a road race, and a sitdown dinner for 100 people. “We start prepping in January,” Barbara said, “and go until the event in July.”

Whether walking along the waterfront or along Bank or State Streets the buzz of change and renewal is palpable. Even where doors are shut, and streets are quiet, construction site ephemera, “Coming Soon” or “Live, Work, Invest” signs promise new activity and business opportunity. From the new National Coast Guard Museum under construction, to the recently completed $310 million Port Authority’s State Pier Terminal, to the New London Community Center, the city is literally alive with energetic growth! In addition to the new developments and the flurry of events dotting the calendar in the latter half of the year, New London’s longtime art culture is alive and well. Just two years ago, New London was approved by the CT Office of the Arts (COA) as a Cultural District, only the third such designation in Connecticut and the first one on the entire CT shoreline. New London stands alone in such a designation from Greenwich to Stonington.

Dave Pollack, owner of The Diamond, with a slice; iconic scenes of New London including the Soldiers & Sailors Monument; an inside view of Thames Art Gallery

On our visit, signs were up for Art in the Park held in Riverside Park the ensuing weekend and galleries had installed their latest exhibitions. John Johnson, owner of the Thames River Gallery has been in New London for 25 years. Although not born and bred, he is certainly proud to call it home and proud the gallery is at the center of so much activity. His enthusiasm for New London was indeed the genesis of this closer look by edible CT EAST!

The gallery, in addition to its seasonal rotation of art, now featuring a host of impressionist painters, will become the hub for the New England Woodcarvers Exhibition during Sailfest in July. During the two-day celebration, the gallery will also have active free-carving space available in the front of the gallery for artists who bring their own chairs and tools.

“We’ve become sort of an unofficial information center,” John said. Given the fact that the gallery is at the beginning (or end) of Bank Street. Alongside John is gallerist Liv Karlsvik who helps coordinate artist installations each season. They both look forward to the many events coming up this summer as the traffic behooves the gallery, especially as some who visit, may not be looking for art, but stumble in. “People make a city,” John said. He believes the town’s revival is making a mark on residents and visitors. “There was a time when our building had vacancies, but now, we’ve been full for the last few years,” he said, as the area continues to draw artists and others looking for a sense of welcome and community.

Fueling the fun in New London is a varied list of eateries. Packed with more bars in one town than we may have ever seen in all of Connecticut, there are also a few places that have just reopened or have newly opened. Muddy Waters Cafe, for example, recently reopened after months of repairs from a fire in August 2023. And Favorites Bistro Bar, which opened last summer, brings a bit more of a dressed up vibe to its “classy Caribbean” fare, amidst a sea of more casual “go as you are” New London restaurants.

When chatting with Chef Dan Cook [that is indeed his name] at newly opened The Diamond, he said he’s thrilled to see what this first summer will bring especially as so many events will bring foot traffic along Bank Street. Cook, who joins owner Dave Pollack at The Diamond, has entered the New London scene by way of Brooklyn and The Pequot Inn in Fishers Island. The bar just screams “fun” as the very structure is split down the middle, red on one side, blue on the other; and games, like a 20-foot-long shuffleboard and pinball machines, as well as giant “lite-brite” sculptures hang on the walls. The incredibly satisfying, signature sourdough pizzas are also playful with names like New England Wasp, Thin Glizzy, Jaco Pistachius, The Real Fun Guy, and Joy of Buttafuoco.

Inside view of the majestic Garde Arts Center

When strolling past the Garde Arts Center, the marquee may catch your attention, but it in no way hints at the glory, the stunning architecture, or the series of impressive murals that adorn the interior. Furthermore, the extensive list of experiences and exhibitions hosted there all year long seems in-line with playbills we’re used to seeing out of metropolitan cities like New York, Chicago, or Los Angeles.

During our visit, Garde Art Center Development Director Jeanne Sigel walked us through the lobby which was showcasing “Resilience,” an exhibition examining social justice in America through the eyes of artists Andre Rochester and Pamela Pike Gordinier. As we toured the work, which was spread out amongst threefloors of the center, guests were heading in for a talk, “Serving the Whole Child: Focus on Safe Housing,” hosted by the CT Black & Brown Student Union and Connecticut Public Broadcasting Network (WNPR).

There was also hustle and bustle in the theater, which seats a whopping 1500 guests, as staff, including Jeanne’s husband Steve, prepared for the upcoming Dinner Theater experience happening just two days later featuring celebrities Katherine McPhee and David Foster. “We are broadening our Oasis Room calendar,” Jeanne said. It was going to be the first time GAC embarked on this type of dinner and a show format, while working with La Luna Ristorante nearby to offer light bites in the Mezzanine. The theater is part of the League of Historic American Theaters and has received the distinction as one of 300 in the country as Outstanding Theater in America.

What just might be the biggest show there of all, however–and the hidden element of grandeur you’d never know without peeking inside–are the sculptures, medallions, and once all-white murals peppered throughout the massive building. Created by the inspired muralist Vera Leeper in the 1920s, the Moroccan-themed pieces are continuously touched-up by local CT artist, Elaine Mills. It is unbelievable to think that the theater was dangerously close to being turned into a parking lot in the mid-1980s before the town rallied together to save it. Today, it is truly a vibrant nexus for culture, expression, and dialogue. Jeanne says, “It is unofficially the town’s community center.”

There is no way to take in all New London has to offer in a day or even two, but on one of those visits, catch the sunrise along the waterfront as boats move through the harbor, or take the chance to fish off the pier at Fort Trumbull State Park, amidst the historic military fort, while watching the sunset; such book-end activities could be just enough to slow down the otherwise harried pace of day-tripping in New London.

SOME SUMMER EVENTS IN NEW LONDON
 

Markets on Golden Street
First Saturdays, June – September, Clothes, crafts, and community shopping

Let Loose Thursdays
Music, food, and fireworks in Parade Plaza

Classic Cars Cruise Nights
Mondays between May and September, 5:00 pm, Ocean Beach Park

Sailfest
July 13 - 14, Over 200 vendors, multiple stages, activities, events throughout Downtown New London

Christmas in July
July 27, 6:00-10:00pm, Waterfront Park - Music, food, lighted boat parade

Pirate Night
August 17, 6-9:00pm, Parade Plaza. Costumes, treasure hunts, and games

2024 Connecticut Maritime Heritage Festival
September 7-8, Port of New London City Pier

A FEW MORE STOPS TO EAT & DRINK
 

Tox Brewery on Broad Street Brewery is moving into a huge downtown location this summer where bands and brews will still go hand and hand at the solid, nearly ten-year old brewery.

Social Bar - With American comfort food, over 50 beers on top, craft cocktails, and lots of events like music, comedy, and trivia, this has quickly become a regular place to stop along Bank Street.

The Blue Duck - Celebrating its two-year anniversary this summer, The Blue Duck’s food and cocktail menu continues to be as bold as its name…. with Sunday brunches and not-to-miss sunset views, to boot!

La Luna Ristorante - A town favorite for Italian American classics, definitely a great stop for their popular Happy Hour deals, and dinner before a show at the Garde Arts Center.

On the Waterfront - Long a favorite in town for a view of the Thames and extensive seafood menu, the family restaurant is still a big hit for dinner along the water.

And Captain Scott’s Lobster Dock always hits the spot if you are short on time but need a fast, reliable bite of seafood, including hot or cold lobster rolls and fried clams.

Or, if you have a hankering for a ‘dog, a slice of pizza, a burger, or other junk food delights that summer gives way to, Fred’s Shanty is your best choice.

MORE TO DO
 

• Take a Thames River Heritage Park Cruise, on the hour, every hour, for an hour-long for just $15
• Find one-of-a kind comic books and games (or just peruse the aisles in your favorite Superhero costume) at Sarge’s
• Stop and smell the roses (and more) at the Thames River Greenery
• Visit the 1678 Joshua Hempstead House, considered one of New England’s oldest, and best documented homes

Thames Art Gallery is located at 239 Bank Street - Muddy Waters Café is located at 40 Bank Street - Favorites Bistro Bar is located at 90 B Bank Street - The Diamond is located at 53 Bank Street - Garde Arts Center is located at 325 State Street